Cotswolds - Day 4 - Wotton-Under-Edge

King's Stanley to Wotton-Under-Edge

combined ascents of over 2400' with equally steep descents

I left Jo Anne having a ly-in and headed down to breakfast. It was all buffet this morning. 

Ok. I lied. I had to have another crumpet this morning. I’m going to start by telling you about Jo Anne’s day. This is what happens when you decide to do laundry over walking. 

Jo Anne’s breakfast

At the launderette

Her lunch was tomato and roasted red pepper with bread. She said it was yumm yumm yumm. 

Then she spent most of the day at the bus stop. She missed the bus to Dursley by a couple of minutes so had to wait in Stonehouse for two hours for the next bus. Then when she finally made it to Dursley, she spent about 2 1/2 hours waiting on a bus that never came. Finally just took a taxi to Wotton-under-Edge. Misery! I’m glad I was walking. Speaking of…

I’m off! It’s 7:22 am and I have a long day ahead. If you looked at the elevation photo above, you can see I have some very steep, very high climbs and descents ahead. 

Having to backtrack to the start of the trail this morning. Crossing the canal at the lockers. 

A view of the inn from across the canal. 

Took this picture of the ducks for Jo Anne. 

This is the Nutshell Bridge. 

Stanley Mill

Constructed in 1811, Stanley Mill is a five story brick and stone building whose great woollen looms were once powered by five water wheels. Later steam power was introduced in 1827. Now derelict the mill formerly employed over 1000 workers.

The overgrown trail and hidden sign, thank goodness for my app. 

The trail heads immediately uphill for the first climb of the day. 

This horse was standing in the kissing gate. I kept talking to her telling her she was going to have to share the gate and to please move over just a bit. She did but didn’t give me an extra inch. I squeezed by giving her side a nice rub with my backpack. 

Up 

Up

And more up 

The first 1.8 miles was getting back to the trail. Not a great way to start a strenuous 15 mile day. 

Baptist church in King’s Stanley 

I spent most of the day in the woods going into Jo Anne’s favorite tree tunnels. 

The last bit of climb on the first hill is steps. 

First milestone of the day reached one hour and 15 min in. 

As I reach the top of each hill, I come out of the woods and walk along an escarpment for great views. 

Don’t like going through tall ferns. Tick check tonight. 

She’s not the least bothered by me. 

I took this photo looking up through the forest trees so you could see the incredibly blue sky. 

More steps 

Field of daisies. 

This is a similar construction to several other Neolithic Long Barrows in the Cotswold Area. It was used for burial and probably as a place of worship. When it was excavated in the 19th century the remains of 13 people were found along with some pottery and flint arrowheads.

A series of short sharp ascents and descents, Neolithic burial chambers and Iron Age hill forts eat up the 6 1/2 miles to Dursley.

It’s always a bit disheartening to climb such a steep hill only to come out of the woods and see cars parked right there. 

I’ve reached Coaley Peak. 

They are resurfacing this part of the Cotswold way due to poor winter conditions of the trail. They want it to be available year round. 

Views from Coaley Peak. 

Looking out over the Severn Valley 

And up I go again 

Steps

Steps

Steps

And more steps

And once again I get to the top and there’s a road with traffic. 

I’ve just reached the highest point on today’s hike. Although looking at what’s ahead, I’m not celebrating yet. 

More down then up again. 

Limestone cliffs

The trees in this wood seemed like they were just about to start walking on the path themselves, leaned in as they were towards the trail.

I had just taken a break, leaning up against a fence,  to eat a mandarin and part of a protein bar when I popped out of the woods to see this bench with a view 🙄. 

If you’re interested in what this climb looks like in reality, see below. 

It goes straight up and over that mountain. Yowza!

This dry stake fence needs some help. 

Coming into Dursley

Dursley, like many other Cotswold towns, was founded on the wool trade. Today its weaving skills turn more towards billiard table baizes and the covers for tennis balls. At one end of the pedestrianized Parsonage St stands the pillared Georgian Market House and the parish church of St James the Great.

Lots more climbing to do after taking a little break to find a WC and eat a snack. 

When I got to the top of this hill there was a golf course that was booming with the sunny weather. There were at least 50-60 cars in the parking lot and people waiting to tee off. 

Then it’s back to the woods to start the descent of the next to last hill today. Only one more climb and downhill. 

At the very top of that hill I spot the Tynedale monument. I know that’s where I’m headed. 

I can see it between the house and tree. 

The final climb is ahead. 

Very thoughtful. 

I can still see the monument ahead 

Getting a little closer. 

Now to just get up that mountain. 

Decided to have a sit and an apple while I work up my last bit of energy. 

Baby sage

Maybe I could just call for a taxi. 

Back into the woods, which was a blessing! The sun was really beating down when out in the open. 

Climbing steeply back to the scarp edge, Tynedale Monument is the main point of interest before reaching Wotton-Under-Edge.

The Tyndale Monument appears suddenly as you turn the corner from a winding track out of the woods. 

It’s left unlocked with an honesty box. So for a small contribution (1£), and if you have the stomach for it, you can climb the 121 steps up the spiral staircase to the top for more tantalizing views. Hmmm, on top of the 2400' ascents today? They say the view is worth it so off I go. In for a penny, in for a pound right (a British idiom meaning a person should finish what he has started to do even if it’s difficult). 

The spiral staircase was a challenge. The higher I got, the smaller the steps were. At the beginning I could almost get one whole foot on a step. They got so small that I could only get about 3/4 of my foot on there. It became very claustrophobic and I began to be concerned about going down well before reaching the top.

Views from each quadrant. 

You really could see forever. It was worth the added steps. 

I’m down now. Whew! Decided to take a minute on a bench and enjoy the view and the fact that I have almost completed this most strenuous day. 

The monument was built in 1866 in honor of William Tyndale and stands 34 meters tall.

William Tyndale was born in Gloucestershire around 1490. He spent much of his early life in Nibley, Stinchcombe and Slimbridge before going on to Magdalen Hall Oxford, from which he graduated with a BA in 1512. 

After this he spent some time in Cambridge before employment as tutor to the children of Master Walsh, a Knight of Sodbury Manor, Gloucestershire. 

It was while at Sodbury William Tyndale seriously began to consider translating the New Testament into English. 

At this time, the doctrines preached by Martin Luther on the continent were being discussed in England and Tyndale accepted them and preached them in Sodbury and the villages around. 

After some time he went to London and there, continued studying and preaching. But persecution was too strong and he made his way to Wittenburg, the home of Luther and joined an enthusiastic band of students who had gathered there. Here he prepared his translation of the New Testament which he had printed in Antwerp and then had copies smuggled into this country. 

Shortly after this William Tyndale was put into prison by the Emperor of Germany on a charge of heresy. At his trial he pleaded that the doctrines he taught were contained in the Bible and that the Bible ought to be in a language which everyone could read, His defence was of no avail and subsequently in the courtyard of Vilvorde Castle near Brussels he was chained to a stake and burnt.

Only one steep descent left. 

A little further along Wotton Hill is a very sweet plantation of trees surrounded by a circular wall. They were planted in 1815 to commemorate the victory at Waterloo and then replanted after a bonfire for Queen Victoria’s jubilee in 1887.

Arriving in Wotton-under-Edge

Lodging tonight is the Swan Hotel, a former coaching Inn (a resting place for people and horse prior to the development of the railway). It has a wealth of character by original features including beamed ceilings, stone floors and exposed walls plus 3 open fires.

It’s not in good repair and I wouldn’t recommend it. There’s no wifi in the room so I’m blogging from the bar. 😳 England and Denmark are playing tonight and England just scored so it’s quite loud. You won’t be getting as much documentary today since I’m ready to go to the room and relax. 

View from our room.

Spectacular zinnias

Wotton-under-Edge is a friendly place. Almost everything happens on the appropriately named Long Street, which morphs from the High Street extending downhill the length of the town. The Cotswold Way runs along this street passing most of the shops and many pubs and cafes. The trail also took me past some almshouses on Church St and near some on Culverhay.

The days fly by while the steps, although many, go only one at a time. As I climbed those steep hills today, I just kept telling myself, one step at a time, one hill at a time. 

Today is the middle day of the Cotswolds and yesterday was the middle day of the whole adventure. Hard to believe in many ways. 

Stats

Steps - 37,650

Miles - 15.9

Elev gain - 2,413 or 101 floors

“Open my eyes to see wonderful things in your Word. I am but a pilgrim here on earth: how I need a map—and your commands are my chart and guide. I long for your instructions more than I can tell.” 

Psalm 119:18-20