Hadrian's - Day 7 - Heddon-on-the-Wall

Corbridge to Heddon-on-the-Wall

another steep climb at the beginning 819' before leveling out

I was able to catch the sunrise quickly this morning before the cloud cover obscured it. It seems to never get dark here. The sky is light at 10:30 pm and still light at 2:30 am. Ask me how I know that. 🤣

I decide to go with porridge this morning. It’s the first time I’ve had the option of gluten free porridge and I’m about worn out over eggs, which I never eat at home. Sadly, no fresh fruit here. 

I can’t get a taxi until 9 am. They do school runs and that’s the first available. I remember that from the C2C walk. So here I sit, ready to get on my way, but waiting.  🙁 Where’s that pub owner and his fancy Land Rover when you need him???

Much of the walk today was parallel to the B6318, which was built directly on top of the wall. An interesting fact is that every time you cross the Military Road, you also cross the historic frontier of the Roman Empire.

Most of Hadrian’s Wall from the outskirts of Newcastle as far as turret 33b further west lies under the Military Cemetery Road, built in the aftermath of the Jacobite uprising of 1745. At Heddon though, for a short distance the road turns slightly north, and stretches of Hadrian’s Wall, 220 meters long, and of the Wall-ditch to its north are visible. This fragment of the Wall is the best preserved of all those so far excavated which were built to broad gauge – the original specification for the Wall when building began about AD 122. A late medieval or post-medieval corn-drying kiln cut into the core of the Wall here is an example of the many ways in which its ruins were exploited by people living along its line.

It’s quite an uphill climb from the very start. 

Looking back toward Corbridge. 

Almost to the top. 

Just kidding, apparently

Maybe that’s the top? Nope

Surely this is the top?

Finally made it to the highest point on today’s walk. 

I end up walking roadside for quite a while. It’s not that fun, hearing the constant whoosh of traffic getting closer. I’m happier when I cross the road at Halton Shields and the path continues, a little more sheltered, on the other side of a hedge. 

And old Whittle Dene is 2 miles away. 

Different step style

Freshly mown path

Crossing the road again 

And then down a lovely path 

Can’t begin to tell you how much easier it is on the feet walking on dirt and grass. 

Another cute little brown and white spotted sheep and another mama giving me the stink eye. As soon as I started down the path, she ran over and hid behind her mama. Not as adventurous as the one the other day. 

As I cross the road again I notice a sign that points to Carlisle where I ended Day 1 of the hike. 43 miles is what it says, of course that’s by road. It hits me how far I’ve actually walked. 91.4 miles before I started walking this morning and I have 3 days left. At the end of today I will have topped 100 which I didn’t think I would do until the final day.

The next field I walk through has a couple of giant bales of hay and long wispy grass of bright green and yellow. It sways in the breeze and looks so idyllic. Even more so with the bright blue cloudy sky behind. But fluffy clouds. The nice ones that don’t seem like they will include rain in my future, though I’m prepared as it is in the forecast.

Two friendly cows guarding the gate. 

More buttercup fields. 

And a field freshly plowed. 

Crossing a small bridge I emerge onto the road and to the left I see the Robin Hood Inn. It’s too early for lunch but I think a cup of tea would be just the ticket. I get a hero’s welcome from the staff as they boost my ego with warm smiles and kind words about how well I'm doing. I don’t want to leave here. Take that truck drivers!

Speaking of truck drivers, when I’m walking close to the road it feels like they will suck me right off my feet. The road is long and straight and they drive really fast. 

The bridge crosses over the military ditch. 

Oh whose idea was this?

Stamping my passport. Only one stamp left. 

Robin Hood Inn

But go on I must. The gracious hosts offer to fill my water bottle with ice cold water, and I’m sad to be leaving. They wish me luck on the journey and I set off on the trail again, stamping my Hadrian’s Wall passport at the stamping station outside.

If I hadn’t been looking at my Macs app at this very minute, I would not have seen this turn because it is so hidden. 

Glad I didn’t miss it since it’s a nice little path away from the road. 

This latest field is dotted with bright red poppies, a pop of color against a field of purple. I feel like I’m in an impressionist painting. Van Gogh would have loved it here. I know this is one of the last times I’m in such a scene because tomorrow will be largely around built-up areas.

The trail takes me through a nature reserve, and even though I don’t see any wildlife except a few ducks, it’s a serene spot next to an otherwise busy road. There’s a reservoir and a hide for wildlife spotting

The only downside is the paths are covered in large stones – on Day 7 they are not kind to the already sore feet.

They’ve carved the acorn and arrow into the stone. 

Made it up the last steep climb of the day. The rest will be smaller ups and downs until I start the climb into Heddon-on-the-Wall. 

Time for a lunch break. Just keeping my mandarin off the step while I take a photo. That was the sweetest mandarin and sweet juicy crisp apple ever. But then again, everything tastes better outside. 

 I stroll through the village of Harlow Hill but before long I'm back in a field.

A string of motorcycle riders 

Following the yellow brick road again

Another tall ladder stile 

And anther road crossing 

I truly wish you could experience how magnificent this scenery is. 

The white flowers are cow parsley

Here’s a bumble bee for you Jo Anne. 

Yikes 

It is what it is

Isn’t this just gorgeous?

Black mustard

Thought I’d stick in one photo of me after a sleepless night (stuffy nose from all those tall fields yesterday) so you would know I’m still here and not just making all this up. 😁

Hogweed (but it’s so pretty)

Look at the tiny little lamb curled up on her mama’s back. Adorable!

The path changes minute by minute. 

Heddon is 3/4 mile away. But wait! That would be if I wasn’t taking the circuitous route below. 

While the wall made life easy for the road-builders, providing a straight route and good fortification, it means there isn’t much wall to see in this section, however, some of the other measures that supplemented the wall’s defenses are obvious. In addition to the wall, there was a ditch just outside the Roman Empire to the north, and a series of mounds and a vallum (a ditch) just to the south. These are still obvious along the route; today sheep shelter from the wind, oblivious to the historical significance of the ditches they lie in, wildflowers grow and streams trickle through these creases, and waves of farmers’ crops ripple like waves over the defensive mounds.

I cross the road one final time for the day (fortunately on an overpass) and take in the sweeping majestic views in the other direction for a while. A farmer works in the field on a giant piece of machinery, busy cutting hay. Another pastoral scene that I appreciate, knowing it will be main roads again soon. It’s beginning to get humid, and sunny. Exhaustion is starting to take over, but it can’t be too much further.

Kody thought you would appreciate this sign. 

I pop back out at the road. The official Hadrian’s Wall Walk continues east towards Heddon-on-the-Wall.

It’s too early (1:30) to check in at the B&B so I stop by the Swan to eat my meal of the day. It’s the only place in town for food. 

Starter of spiced carrot soup 

Chicken bacon and avocado (except I never found any avocado) salad with pesto sourdough bread crostini. I’m not going to lie. I took a bite (just one) of that bread. 

This has been my dining companion for the last week. 

Broad petaled geranium. 

Heddon Lodge is my destination today and thankfully, it is not off-trail, no transport or extra miles, just a slew of steps and a great view from the porch. 

The room reminds me of the room I always slept in at mother and daddy’s. It has antique white furniture and no room to put your suitcase. 

I have a private bathroom but it’s next to my room not en-suite. It’s almost as big as the bedroom. And yes, I did enjoy soaking in that tub with the muscle soothe provided. 

There’s been a nice gentle rain falling since an hour after I arrived. It’s supposed to rain most of the night and day tomorrow. Hopefully my rain gear will suffice. 

Stats

Steps -25,723

Miles - 11.2

Elev gain - 819’

I keep losing my wifi signal so this is getting published without review before I lose it again. 

"He it is who makes the clouds rise at the end of the earth, who makes lightnings for the rain and brings forth the wind from his storehouses."

Psalm 135:7