Hadrian's - Day 5 - Chollerford

 

Once Brewed to Chollerford

~1430' ascent but look at that steep descent ~1340'

watch out knees and shins

The sky is a clear blue with only a few clouds in sight. No rain in the forecast but that’s nothing new. The wind is gusting a good bit. Again, so glad it’s to my back. The temps are about the same, low 40s to start moving quickly into the 50s. 

Today’s section of  Hadrian’s Wall Walk should be 20.2km/12.6-miles. That doesn’t include the extra half mile that I’ll need to reach the start of the trail from Vallum Lodge.

The Romans wanted their wall to be an insurmountable obstacle to would-be invaders, so looked for natural geographical features that could strengthen their position. Much of the trail teeters atop ridgelines, offering extensive views on either side – a pleasant fact for me, and a huge defensive advantage for the Romans, as it also negated the need for a ditch! From the high points of each ridgeline, you can admire the way the wall unfurls neatly over the undulations. I’m looking in my mind for a stronger word than undulations since that suggests a gentle wave-like motion. Maybe swells works better. 🤣

With less human interference and development along this section, most of the wall and defenses are retained. 

There is much of the Roman Wall to follow today as well as some of the best maintained Roman Forts. While the first part of the day is extremely up and down, the latter half of the day is relatively flat but has a killer descent into town. It will follow the course of the main road – albeit from the safety and comfort of a field on the other side of a hedge. After Housesteads there are no bathrooms or reliable food/water sources so I need to plan ahead.

Branson, the cocker spaniel greeted me at the breakfast door with his soggy chewed on stuffed parrot wanting to play. Since I was there to eat breakfast I wasn’t going to touch the soggy parrot. He tried everyone who came in the door. Then he begged at every table for food. Silly Branson. 

Smoked salmon and eggs on gf toast. I don’t know why they serve everything on toast. It gets so soggy. 

I eat my breakfast loading up on energy for a long day which I already know is scant with options for food and rest. Unlike the previous days where there was always an honesty box (or three) serving delicious cakes and other snacks along the way, today will be a long day without such luxuries.

I drop my bag at the door for the luggage service to pick up later. Backpack is ready with all the essentials. Then off I go. It’s a bright enough morning and I’m excited to get back on the trail.

From my high vantage point I am able to see the Twice Brewed Inn and Vallum Lodge. The lingering memories of a good meal will keep me going. 

While the official continuation point of the Hadrian’s Wall Walk is at Steel Rigg car park, I don’t need to go that far, only as far as I got before leaving the trail yesterday. Cutting through a field behind Peel Cottage, I find my route and soon see the Roman Wall again. And a steep incline to start.

Don’t like these stone steps. Especially going down. Couldn’t do them without my hiking poles. 

Love it when they just drop off the side of the fell and you know how steep it’s going to be. 

Memories of Day 4’s ups and downs come flooding back. Do I really have the energy to do this? But I'm halfway on this epic trail, and I am nothing if not determined.

For the first mile I am up and down, making my way past the beautifully intact foundations of Milecastle 39. The wall can be seen snaking off into the distance for miles and miles. A drop on the other side of the wall shows lush green fields of farm animals and Crag Lough (lake) not so far away.

photo not mine

One of the first landmarks I came across is Sycamore Gap. It is one of the iconic images along the whole length of the wall. A single sycamore tree (Acer Pseudophatanus to give it’s official name), perfectly situated and visually unique. It gained even more fame when used as a setting in ‘Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves’ (1991), where Kevin Costner as Robin rescued the boy from up ‘the’ tree. The wall itself is used for great effect. The sycamore tree is also actually now known as ‘Robin Hood’s Tree’. Yes, I know, it is located a few hundred miles north of Nottingham but creative license, right? 

photo not mine

Thought to be several hundred years old, and standing more than 50' tall, it WAS one of the most photographed trees in the country. Sycamore Gap is undoubtedly an instantly recognizable landmark and is one of the most iconic places to visit while in Hadrian’s Wall Country with many marriage proposals and celebrations held here.

photo not mine

Unfortunately, in September 2023, in a dreadful act of vandalism, the beloved tree was felled. Parts of the wall were also damaged as the tree fell across it. The devastation, disbelief and sadness was felt not only locally but all across the world. Two men in their 30's were arrested and released on bail. Daniel Graham, 38, and Adam Carruthers, 31, both from Cumbria, have been charged with criminal damage in excess of £620,000 both to the tree and to the adjacent Hadrian's wall. They appeared in court on May 15th pleading not guilty and no plea. 

Here's a rendering of the two as they appeared in court. They're a sad looking lot aren't they. Why would they do something like that? No one knows.

There are now plans to create a series of initiatives designed to mark the legacy of the tree and these plans will develop over time.

The priority right now is to protect the original tree stump, in the hope it will regrow in some form. A low fence has been placed around the stump and visitors are being asked not to climb on it. Trees can live for a long time once cut, however only time will tell exactly what happens with this particular stump. It could take years to see signs of regrowth.

photo not mine

The National Trust, the conservation charity that operates the center and cares for the land the tree stood on, recently announced that the seeds and other cuttings taken from the felled tree are “beginning to spring into life.”

My first view of the tree stump. 

 

It is more than 6’ across so this act of vandalism took much planning and forethought. 

This is the first of two places today I actually have to stand on the wall. The trail picks up on the other side. 

After Sycamore Gap there are some fantastic views as I pass by Crag Lough (lake) that is situated just to the north. Walking along the crag tops known as Whin Sill I can look in every direction and see for miles.

This scripture comes to mind as I think of the barbarians who inhabited this area and the Christian missionaries who braved the area to spread the gospel.

"Therefore strong peoples will glorify you; cities of ruthless nations will fear you."

Isaiah 25:3

Crag Lough was formed by glaciers in the last Ice Age and is one of the four Roman Wall Loughs. The other three are Broomlee, Greenlee and Halleypike. I got to see them all today. 

Someone left a dirty fork 🤷‍♀️

A diversion

Down and up and down and up I go. 

Another rocky climb 

Look at the consistency in the cut of the stones. 

I suddenly head into the trees physically walking on the wall itself. Such an odd feeling knowing you’re walking where Roman’s in 122-3 AD walked. 

Another hour of walking takes me along more ridgelines, past more amazingly preserved Wall, and even through a small forested area. I arrive at Housesteads Roman Fort 2 hours into the day. 

Housesteads Roman Fort was an auxiliary fort dramatically positioned on the end of the mile-long crag of the Whin Sill. It was called the "grandest station" on the Wall and is one of the best-preserved and extensively displayed forts. It was occupied for almost 300 years. There are questions about which fort to visit if you only have time for one: Housesteads or Vindolanda. Since Vindolanda would be a 3 mile roundtrip off the trail after that walk yesterday and Housesteads is right by the trail, I opted for Housesteads.

As I have a long day ahead I take advantage of the last bathroom for a long time. The views of the Wall around here are just mesmerizing, undulating  😁 over the rolling green hills of northern England.

I see the lady with the skirt and knee high gaiters. After talking to her a bit I find out she is walking the entire Pennine Way. It’s a difficult trail, especially to wild camp along the way. Impressive. 

There are so many turrets and milecastles to see today. 

And oh my feet and legs do not want to climb over that stile. 

My next peak. 

And I’ve done it. I’ve reached the highest point on today’s trail. 

This is called a trig point. It’s a surveyors station. Trig points or Triangulation Pillars are another way of spotting the top of a mountain on a map. The symbol for a trig point is a small triangle.

It’s hard to tell from this photo but I was looking down at all the stones at the bottom.  

Another example of broad wall changing to narrow. 

I find a few friendly cows along the way, and continue to hug the wall (not literally) along the trail. For the next 2.5 miles or so (about 4 km) I continue climbing up and down. The good thing about following a path along a ruined Roman Wall? It ends up being a convenient height for rest stops along the way. Sitting or leaning against it to catch my breath. 

Passing turrets and milecastles, I know I must be heading to flatter ground soon.

A curved corner still standing. 

You really get a sense of how wide the wall was looking at it flat on the ground. 

Another drop off trail. 

You can’t just watch for the acorns. You also have to watch for the direction of the yellow arrow. Several times I would have to back up and look again because the trail would split on the other side of the gate. 

These trees are massive. 

I just liked the moss on the old wood and stones. Card fodder. 😁

I'm more than half way through the day. The Mithraic Temple at Brocolitia is impressive. The temple is filled with partially degraded columns and statues. At 1300 years old it’s still more or less obvious the type of space it once was.

The Temple of Mithras served soldiers in the Roman fort at Carrawburgh, and civilians living in a settlement outside it, between AD 200 and 350.

Carrawburgh is one of 16 large forts along Hadrian's Wall. Built for a garrison of 500 soldiers around AD 130, it remained in use until the end of the 4th century.

A walk through the buttercups. 

The Roman ditch as part of their defense system. 

I would love to take some of this sheep wool home but it always seems to be attached to some dried out cow poo. I’m sure I wouldn’t be able to get it through customs anyway. Probably has mites or something else in it. 

Speaking of cow poo, can someone explain this to me?

Why would you pick up your little doggy poo and put it in plastic and then leave it on the trail?

Or better yet, stick it between the stones on the wall? Because no one can see that?? Why don’t you just leave it where it can bio degrade like the cow and sheep?

It's not like it will even be noticed in the grand scheme of poo. 

At last I start moving closer to the road, and see no more ridges in my future. Following the trail towards a farm, I emerge around the back of it and set off across a more open stretch of land. I'm back to low fields, tall grasses and sheep poo. The clouds have threatened rain for the last couple of miles, but it’s only spit on me a few times. Not worth getting the rain gear out. 

There are larger gaps between sections of the wall now. I cross field after field, hearing the gentle whoosh of cars on the other side of the fence along the road. It’s been a long day so far. I’m ready for a good meal. By the time I reach Black Carts Turret I pretty much say goodbye to the wall for the day.

This is not what I want to see right now. 

Cathie, here’s a door for you. 

With only 3km to go, the trail takes me through wooded area and eventually a dirt path. Emerging into the start of a small village, I have arrived at Walwick.

The houses are enormous, the gardens are lavish and everywhere looks like it has its own butler and should be at the center of a murder mystery. I follow the main road, casting glances over the sweeping countryside views to the right, and checking out the older farmhouse-style buildings along the road to the left.

It appears to be a busy little road, more traffic than I’ve seen this close for a couple of days. Seeing what looks to be a church clock and steeple in the distance, I finally get close enough. That’s when I notice this is no church, but rather a sprawling estate. 

Walwick Hall. A gargantuan driveway leads to an ivy covered entrance. You can stay at Walwick Hall as it has self catering apartments, a hotel and a fancy spa, but there’s no Walwick Hall for me. 

Chesters Roman Fort is on the right a little further down the road. There’s a box outside where I can get my Hadrian’s Wall Walk passport stamp. The girl said she could stamp my Bowness on Solway too. She just put a piece of paper under the part that said Chester’s. I decide to go to the museum to check for bathroom. The gift shop has a single bathroom stall but everything else was in the museum. I am almost at Chollerford so decide to push on, but Chesters is a great place to spend some time if you make it early enough.

I am to call the Inn when I arrive at the George hotel for a pickup. I sat at the picnic table outside the hotel waiting and this was my view. Not too shabby.

The bridge dates to the late 18th century (1775), spans a total of 90 meters, supported by five semi-circular stone arches and was built to replace a medieval bridge damaged in heavy floods in 1771. The road is known locally as the Military Road because it was built following the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745 to ease troop movements between Carlisle and Newcastle.

Watched the white birds diving for fish. 

Simonburn Tearooms is my home for tonight. It's an old school tearoom and B&B located in Simonburn (4.5 miles away). As there is no place to eat other than the tearoom, a meal will be prepared for me, for a fee of course. 

View from my room. 

My room. 

Part of the tearoom 

The starter was tomato soup (no pic) followed by beef stew for the main. I thought that was kind of odd but they were both delicious. 

The settlement of Chollerford grew up beside the Roman fort and the major crossing of the Tyne. The most notable event in the town's history took place in AD 633 when a Northumbrian army under Oswald of Bernicia met a force of Welsh led by Cadwallon ap Cadfan. The conflict is known as the Battle of Heavenfield and was a decisive victory for the Northumbrians.

Ok, my brain is on overload from the last two days and my body is tired, so I'm off where I hope to get a good night's sleep.

Stats 

Steps - 35,737

Miles - 15.1

Floors or elev - 95 or 1430’

“There is none holy like the Lord: for there is none besides you; there is no rock like our God."

1 Samuel 2:2